![]() ![]() If you are weaving on a floor loom and have that height to your advantage a great option to use is a water bottle or jugs depending on what you need. ![]() I often use fishing weights for this purpose. You may have to create a hook or a device to attach your weight, but you may also be able to use some scrap yarn loosely tied around the warp(s) to attach your weight.Ī lot of weavers will keep heavy nuts and bolts to tie to their yarn, but if you need a lot of them to make up the weight you want you can put them in a small container to keep them together. You will want to attach your weight to your warp and have it hang from the back beam. The amount of weight that you need will depend on how much tension is required. In this case, you will need to weigh down your warp yarn to create that extra tension. When your tension is off a lot in certain spots then you will want to try something a little more heavy-duty than cardboard. The half-bow is just as strong as the square knot but makes your life a little easier. It also makes it harder to take your warp off your loom when you are all done. This will work, but if you have to adjust it then it can be hard to undo. A lot of weavers will use a simple square knot instead. The half-bow is a great option because it is easy to untie if you need to adjust your tension and it is very strong. Check out my post on 5 essential knots for weavers. My favorite way to tie my warp to the front apron rod is with a half-bow. Tensioning works best when all of the warp is already tied on because you can compare it to the other warps. It is also a good idea to not try to make your warp as tight as you can during this first step of tying on. If you were to start on one side and just make your way across to the other side, you will probably end up with the beginning set of warps being a lot looser. Move back and forth until you get to the last set of warps in the middle. That means you do one set of warps on one side, then another set on the other side. When you are setting up your warp and tying it onto your loom you will always want to start at the selvedges and work your way in. If your warp is too tight when weaving a pattern then it won’t weave up correctly. This means that you will need a little bit of flexibility in the warp so that it can move. Pattern weaving (this includes plain weave) actually deflects the warp instead of flowing over it. You want the warp to still be tight enough that it maintains your correct warp spacing because loose warp will move around. That does not mean that you want a loose warp. Pattern weaving, on the other hand, requires a tension that is less tight. Weaving already takes long enough – we don’t have time for that! ![]() It won’t fully compress unless you fiddle with it. If you ever try weaving tapestry on a loom with inadequate tension you will notice that it can become frustrating when your warp is moving as you are trying to beat your weft. This is why certain types of looms are better for tapestry than others. So in this case: the tighter you can make your tension the better. Since tapestry requires your weft to flow around your warp it is important that it doesn’t move much or really at all. Make sure to check out my entire tapestry post HERE. I have said it many times before, but high tension is incredibly important when weaving tapestry. Starting off your weaving with uneven tension or tension that is not right for the type of weaving you are creating is not ideal. PeterM_Foxhead.png: "Foxhead" by PeterM.Creating an even tension on your warp is important because it will set up your weaving for success.This example is also viewable on Overleaf if you want to see the pdf output next to the code. ![]() Here's a short example showing left and right aligned images with captions, with the text wrapped around. Just to add another answer here in case anyone else has this question - you can wrap text around figures quite nicely with the wrapfig package. ![]()
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